A'in-i Akbarī - The Ain-i-Akbarī, Volume 2

It is situated in the second climate. Its length from Sinjhauli in the Jaunpúr district to the southern hills⁸ is 160 kos; its breadth from Chausa ferry to Ghátampúr 122 kos. On the East is Behár. To the North, Oudh. Bándhú⁹ lies to the South and Agra to the West.

Its principal rivers are the Ganges and the Jumna, and there are. other smaller streams such as the A´rand,¹⁰ Ken, Sarú (Sarjú), Barna, &c.

Its climate is healthy. It produces a variety of fruits, flowers and garden herbs, and it has always an abundant supply of melons and grapes. Agriculture is in a flourishing state. Jowári¹ and Lahdarah, however, do not grow and Moth is scarce. Cloths, such as Jhóli,² and Mihrkal and the like are beautifully woven, especially at Benáres, Jalálábád and Mau At Jaunpúr, Zafarwál and other places woollen carpets are manufactured. A variety of game is also to be found.

Illahabád anciently called Priyág was distinguished by His Imperial Majesty by the former name. A stone fort was completed and many handsome edifices erected. The Hindús regard it as the King of shrines. Near it, the Ganges, the Jumna and the Saraswati meet, though the latter is not visible. Near the village of Kantat considerable captures of elephants are made. What is most strange is that when Jupiter enters the constellation Leo, a small hill appears from out of the Ganges and remains there during the space of one month upon which the people offer divine worship.

Báránasi, universally known as Benares, is a large city situated between the two rivers, the Barna and the Ási.³ In ancient books, it is styled Kási. It is built in the shape of a bow of which the Ganges forms the string. In former days there was here an idol temple, round which procession was made after the manner of the kaạbah and similar ceremonials of the pilgrims conducted. From time immemorial, it has been the chief seat of learning in Hindustán. Crowds of people flock to it from the most distant parts for the purpose of instruction to which they apply themselves with the most devoted assiduity. Some particulars of its history shall be related in what follows.

In A. H. 410 Sulṭán Maḥmúd of Ghazní marched hither, and some disruption of the old faith was effected. In A. H. 416, he again invaded the country. He first invested Gwalior but raised the siege under a treaty of peace. He then resolved to take the fort of Kálinjar. The governor sent him 300 elephants with his respectful submission and proffered some eulogistic verses. Maḥmúd was so much pleased that he bestowed on him the governorship of the fort together with the charge of fourteen other places.

Jaunpúr is a large city. Sulṭán Fíroz (Tughlak) king of Delhi laid its foundations and named it after his cousin Fakhrúddín Jaunah.¹ Its longitude is 190° 6"; its latitude 26° 15".

Chanádah (Chanár) is a stone fort on the summit of a hill, scarce equalled for its loftiness and strength. The river Ganges flows at its foot.

In its vicinity, there is a tribe of men who go naked, living in the wilds, and subsist by their bows and arrows and the game they kill. Elephants are also found in the forests.

Kálinjar is a stone fortress situated upon a heaven-reaching² hill. No one can trace its origin. It contains many idol temples and an idol is there, called Káli Bhairon,³ 18 cubits high, of which marvellous tales are related. Springs rise within the fort and there are many tanks. Adjoining it is a dense forest in which wild elephants, and kestrels and hawks and other animals are trapped.⁴ Ebony is here found and many kinds of fruits grow spontaneously. There is also an iron mine. In the neighbourhood, within eight kos, the peasants find small diamonds.

It is said that Rájá Kírat Singh the governor of the fort possessed six precious treasures, a learned Bráhman of saintly life, a youth of great beauty and amiable disposition, a parrot that answered any questions put to it and some say, remembered everything that it heard, a musician named Bakshú unequalled in the knowledge and practice of his art, and two handmaidens lovely to behold and skilled in song. Sulṭán Báhadur Gujrátí having formed a friendship with the Rájá asked him for one of these. The Rájah generously and with a provident wisdom sent him Bakshú. Next Sher Khán of the House of Súr requested the gift of the two wonderful songstresses, and when his messenger returned without them, he invested the fort. Works were erected and the besieged were reduced to great straits. In despair, the Rájá, after the manner of the Hindus who hold their honour dear, burnt his women, for in the slumbering of his reason, he had set his affections upon the things of this fleeting life, and so giving his body to ashes, according to the desire of his enemies, he became soiled with the dust of dissolution. As to Sher Khán, who had conceived this wicked design, he fell at the powder magazine when the fire opened on the fort and the harvest of his life was consumed.¹

In the village of Modha high and low are distinguished for their comeliness.

This Súbah contains ten Sarkárs, and 177 Parganahs. Revenue 21 krors, 24 lakhs and 27,819 dáms (Rs. 53,10,695-7-9,) and 12 lakhs of betel leaves. Of these Parganahs 131 pay revenue from crops charged at special rates. Measured land 39,68,018 bighas, 3 biswas, yielding a revenue of 20 krors, 29 lakhs 71,224 dáms (Rs. 50,74,280-9). The remaining 46 Parganahs pay the general bigah rate. They are rated at 94 lakhs, 56,595 dáms (Rs. 2,36,424-14). Of this, 1 kror, 11 lakhs, 65,417 dáms (Rs. 279,135-6-6,) are Suyúrghál. The province furnishes 11,375 Cavalry, 237,870 Infantry and 323 elephants.

Note.—In the names of the parganahs under the following Sarkárs, I have altered the spelling where the variants allow, in accordance with Elliot's lists, as his personal acquaintance with their true pronunciation is probably more correct than those of my previous lists which were adapted as far as possible to reconcile the readings of Gladwin and Tieffenthaler. The discrepancies are slight and will not interfere with their recognition.

These six princes held sway for 97 years and a few months.

This province was formerly administered by the sovereigns of Delhi. When the imperial authority devolved on Sulṭán Maḥmúd-b-Sulṭán Muḥammad-b-Firúz Sháh, he bestowed the title of Sulṭán us Sharḳ upon Malik Sarwar a eunuch who had received from his predecessor the dignity of Khán-i-Jahán, and sent him to this province.¹ He gave lustre to his reign by his judgment, clemency, justice and valour and thus garnered a provision for his life's last journey. When the cup of his days was full, the son whom he had adopted, named Mubárak Ḳaranful, by the assistance of the chief men of the State, raised himself to power and had the khutbah read and the coin struck in his own name. When the news of this event reached Mallú (Khán²) he collected troops and marched from Delhi to oppose him and encamped in readiness for battle on the banks of the Ganges,³ but nothing decisive having been effected, both armies returned home.

When this prince died, his younger brother Ibrahím was raised to the throne. By his knowledge of men and capacity for affairs he administered the kingdom with justice and made the chastisement of the unruly a source of prosperity to his government. Wisdom was eagerly sought and the prospects of the intelligent in every profession were advanced. Ḳázi Shahábu'ddín,⁴ a sage of Hindustan flourished about this time. He was born at Delhi and in that city acquired a comprehensive knowledge of the inductive sciences and traditional lore, and at the time of the arrival of Timur, he set out for Jaunpúr in the company of his master Mauláná Khwájagí who was the successor of Naṣíru'ddin Chirágh¹ of Delhi and there continued his progress and became the envy of his time. Sháh Madár, however, who is esteemed one of the saints of Hindustán and the chief of his contemporay series of divines, through the disagreement that ever exists between philosophers who regard the material world, and masters of the spiritual life, entertained no esteem for the Kázi.

When the days of Ibrahím came to a close, his eldest son Bíkhan² Khán, under the name of Sulṭan Maḥmud, assumed the sovereignty. As his deeds were not approved, the sentence of deposition was issued against him and his brother Husain³ raised to power. He made rectitude his rule of conduct and his chief object the conciliation of all hearts. Fortune favoured his desires and the world praised him but intoxicated by the maddening fumes of worldly⁴ success, he became arrogant. He was involved in war with Sulṭán Bahlol and was defeated. Sultán Bahlol left⁵ his son Bárbak at Jaunpúr and entrusted him with the government. On the death of Sulṭán Bahlol the throne of Delhi devolved on Sulṭán Sikandar. Sulṭán Husain with the connivance of Bárbak collected troops, made several attempts against Delhi, but with him the Sharki dynasty closed.⁶

It is situated in the second climate. Its length from the Sarkár of Gorakhpúr to Kanauj is 135 kos. Its breadth from the northern mountains to Sidhpúr⁷ on the frontier of the Subah of Allahabad is 115 kos. To the east is Behar; to the north, the mountains; to the south, Manikpúr, and to the west, Kanauj. Its climate is good. Summer and winter are nearly temperate. Its principal streams are the Sarú (Sarjú), the Ghaghar (Gogra) the Sai and the Godí (Gumti). In the first mentioned, divers aquatic animals and forms of strange appearance show themselves. Agriculture is in a flourishing state, especially rice of the kinds called Sukhdás, Madkhar, and Jhanwáh,¹ which for whiteness, delicacy, fragrance and wholesomeness are scarcely to be matched. They sow their rice three months earlier than in other parts of Hindustán. When the drought begins, the Sai and the Gogra rise high in flood and before the beginning of the rains, the land is inundated, and as the waters rise, the stalks of rice shoot up and proportionately lengthen: the crop, however, is destroyed if the floods are in full force before the rice is in ear. Flowers, fruit and game are abundant. Wild buffaloes are numerous. When the plains are inundated the animals take to the high ground where the people find sport in hunting them. Some of the animals remain all day in the water and only at night approach the dry ground and breathe in freedom. Awadh² is one of the largest cities of India. In is situated in longitude 118°, 6', and latitude 27°, 22'. It ancient times its populous site covered an extent of 148 kos in length and 36 in breadth, and it is esteemed one of the holiest places of antiquity. Around the environs of the city, they sift the earth and gold is obtained. It was the residence of Rámachandra³ who in the Treta⁴ age combined in his own person both the spiritual supremacy and the kingly office.

At the distance of one kos from the city, the Gogra, after its junction with the Sai, flows belows the fort. Near the city stand two considerable tombs of six and seven yards in length respectively. The vulgar believe them to be the resting-places of Seth and the prophet Job, and extraordinary tales are related of them. Some say that at Rattanpúr is the tomb of Kabír,⁵ the assertor of the unity of God. The portals of spiritual discernment were partly opened to him and he discarded the effete doctrines of his own time. Numerous verses in the Hindi language are still extant of him containing important theological truths. Bahraich is a large town on the banks of the river Sarju. Its environs are delightful with numerous gardens. Sálár Masạúd¹ and Rajab Sálár are both buried here. The common people of the Muhammadan faith greatly reverence this spot and pilgrims visit it from distant parts, forming themselves in bands and bearing gilded banners. The first mentioned was connected by blood with Maḥmúd Ghazní, and sold his life bravely in battle and left an unperishable name. The second was the father of Sulṭán Fíróz king of Delhi and won renown by the rectitude of his life.

In the vicinity of the town, there is a village called Dókóṇ which for a long time possessed a mint for copper coinage.

From the northern mountains quantities of goods are carried on the backs of men, of stout ponies and of goats, such as gold, copper, lead, musk, tails² of the ḳuṭás cow, honey, chúk (an acid composed of orange juice and lemon boiled together), pomegranate seeds, ginger, long pepper, majith³ root, borax, zedoary, wax, woollen stuffs, wooden ware, hawks, falcons, black falcons, merlins, and other articles. In exchange they carry back white and coloured cloths, amber, salt, assafœtida, ornaments, glass and earthen ware.

Nímkhár is a fort of considerable note and a shrine of great resort. The river Godi (Gumti) flows near it, and around are numerous temples. There is a tank called Brahmáwartkund in which the water boils and with such a swirl, that a man cannot sink therein,⁴ and it ejects whatever is thrown into it. In the neighbourhood is also a deep hollow, the spring-head of a small stream one yard in breadth and four digits deep that flows into the Gumti. The Bráhmans tell strange tales of it and pay it worship. Its sand shapes itself into the form of Mahádeo which quickly disappears again and of whatever is thrown in, as rice and the like, no trace remains.

There is likewise a place called Charámiti, whence, during the Holi festival, flames spontaneously issue forth with astonishing effect.

Lucknow is a large city on the banks of the Gumti, delightful in its surroundings. Shaikh Mína whom the people consider a saint, lies buried here.

Súrajkand is a place of worship frequented by various classes of people from the most distant places.

Kheri is a town on the banks of the river Saí upon which the people go in boats to spear fish.

Bilgrám is a small town the air of which is healthy and its inhabitants are generally distinguished for their quick wit and their love of singing. There is a well here which adds to the intelligence and comeliness of whomsoever drinks of it for forty days.

This Súbah is divided into five Sarkárs and thirty-eight parganas. The measured lands are 1 kror, 1 lakh, 71,180 bíghas. Its revenue, 20 krors, 17 lakhs, 58,172 dáms, (Rs. 5,043,954-4), of which 85 lakhs, 21,658 dáms (Rs. 213,041-7,) are Suyúrghál. The provincial force consists of 7,640 Cavalry, 168,250, Infantry and 59 Elephants.

Containing 21 Mehals, 2,796,206 Bígahs, 19 Biswahs, Revenue, 40,956,347 Dáms in money. Suyúrghál, 1,680,248 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 1340, Elephants 23, Infantry 31,700.

Containing 24 Mahals, 244,283 Bighas, 13 Biswas. Revenue 11,926,790

Dams in money. Suyúrghal 51,235 Dams. Castes various. Cavalry 1,010. Infantry 22,000.

Containing 11 Mahals, 1,823,435 Bíghas, 8 Biswas, Revenue 24,120,525 Dáms in money. Suyúrghal, 466,482 Dáms, Castes various. Cavalry 1,170. Infantry 14,000.

Containing 22 Mahals, 1,987,700 Bíghas, 6 Biswas. Revenue, 43,644,381 Dáms in money. Suyúrghal, 171,342 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 1,160. Infantry 27,800.

Containing 55 Mahals, 3,307,426 Bíghas, 2 Biswas. Revenue 80,716,160 Dáms in money. Suyúrghál, 4,572,526 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 2,680. Elephants 36. Infantry 83,450.

It is situated in the second climate. Its length from Ghátampúr on the Allahabad side to Palwal on that of Delhi is 175 kos. In breadth it extends from Kanauj to Chandéri iu Málwah. On the east lies Ghátampúr; to the north, the Ganges; to the south Chandéri, and to the west, Palwal. It possesses many rivers, of which the principal are the Jumna and the Chambal. The former flows down from the northern mountains, the latter rises at Hásilpúr in Málwah and unites with the Jumna at Kálpi. Ranges of hills lie scattered to the south. The excellence of its climate is almost unrivalled. Agriculture is in perfection. Fruits and flowers of all kinds abound. Sweet-scented oil, and betel-leaf of the first quality are here obtained, and its melons and grapes rival those of Persia and Transoxiana. Agra is a large city and possesses a healthy climate. The river Jumna flows through it for five kos, and on either bank are delightful villas and

pleasant stretches of meadow. It is filled¹ with people from all countries and is the emporium of the traffic of the world. His Majesty has built a fort of red stone, the like of which travellers have never recorded. It contains more than five hundred buildings of masonry after the beautiful designs of Bengal and Gujerat which masterly sculptors and cunning artists of form have fashioned as architectural models. At the eastern gate are two elephants of stone with their riders graven with exquisite skill. In former times Agra was a village dependent on Biánah². Sultan Sikandar Lodhi made it his capital,³ but his present Majesty embellished it and thus a matchless city has arisen. On the opposite side of the river is the Chár Bágh, a memorial of Bábar.⁴ It was the birth-place of the writer of this work, and the last resting-place of his grandfather⁵ and his elder brother. Shaikh Alá u'ddín Majzúb, Rafíiu'ddin Safawí and many other saintly personages also repose there.

Near the city on the banks of the river Jumna is a village called Rangtah, a much frequented place of Hindu worship.

Fateḥpúr was a village formerly one of the dependencies of Biánah, and then called Síkrí, situated twelve kos distaut from Agra. After the accession of his Majesty, it rose to be a city of the first importance. A masonry fort was erected and two elephants carved in stone at its gate inspire astonishment. Several noble buildings also rose to completion and although the royal palace and the residences of many of the nobility are upon the summit of the hill, the plains likewise are studded with numerous mansions and gardens. By the command of his Majesty a mosque, a college and a religious house were also built upon the hill, the like of which few travellers can name. In the neighbourhood is a tank, twelve kos in circumference and on its embankment his Majesty constructed a spacious courtyard, a minár, and a place for the game of Chaugán; elephant fights were also exhibited. In the vicinity is a quarry of red stone whence columns and slabs of any dimensions can be excavated. In these two cities under his Majesty's patronage carpets and fine stuffs are woven and numerous handicraftsmen have full occupation. Biánah in former times was a large city. It possesses a fort containing many buildings and cellars, and people at the present day still find therein weapons of war and copper utensils. There is also a lofty tower. Fine mangoes grow here, some of them more than two pounds in weight. Sugar of extreme whiteness is also manufactured. Here too is a well, with the water of which mixed with white sugar, they make cakes weighing two pounds more or less which they call kandaurah (with no other water will they solidify) and these are taken to the most distant parts as a rarity. Indigo of finest quality is here to be obtained, selling at ten to twelve rupees per man weight. Excellent hinna is also to be found, and here are the tombs of many eminent personages.

Todah Bhím is a place at a distance of three kos, from which is a pit full of water, the depth of which none has sounded. Mines of copper and turquoise are said to exist, but the expense of working them exceeds their income.

Mathura (Muttra) is a city on the banks of the Jumna: it contains some fine temples, and is one of the most famous of Hindú shrines. Kálpi is a town on the banks of the Jumna. It is the resting-place of many saintly personages. Excellent sugarcandy is here manufactured. In the time of the Sharki princes, it was tributary to Delhi. When Kádir Khán affecting the airs of sovereignty proclaimed his independence, Sulṭán Hoshang marched from Málwah and having chastised him, reinstated him in the government. Sulṭán Muḥmúd of the Sharki dynasty, however, seized it in turn from Naṣír Khán the son of Kádir Khán.

Kanauj was in ancient times the capital of Hindustán.

Gwalior is a famous fortress and an elephant carved in stone at its gate fills the beholder with astonishment. It contains some stately edifices of its former rulers. Its climate is good. It has always been noted for its exquisite singers¹ and lovely women: here is an iron mine.

Alwar (Ulwar) produces glass and woollen carpets.

Peráth² possesses a copper mine, so profitable that from a man weight of ore, they obtain 35 sers of metal. A silver mine is also said to exist but it does not pay to work it.

Near the hill of Nárnol is a well at which the Hindús worship and when the tithi¹ of Amáwas falls on a Friday, it overflows at sunrise and water can be drawn without the aid of a rope.

At Singhánah, Udaipúr, and Kóṭpútli are mines of copper. In the town of Kánóri² are many cold and hot springs.

The Súbah contains thirteen Sarkárs, two hundred and three Parganahs (fiscal subdivisions). The measured lands are 2 krors, 78 lakhs, 62,189 bíghas, 18 biswas. The revenue is 54 krors, 62 lakhs, 50,304 dáms. (Rs. 13,656,257-9-6). Of this, 1 kror, 21 lakhs, 5,703½ dáms (Rs. 302,642-9.) are Suyúrghál. The provincial force consists of 50,681 cavalry, 577,570 Infantry, and 221 elephants.

Containing 33 Mahals, 91,007,324 Bíghas. Revenue 191,819,265 Dáms in money. Suyúrghál 14,566,818 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 15,560. Infantry 100,800.

Containing, 16 Mahals, 300,023 Bíghas, 9 Biswas, Revenue, 49, 356, 732 Dàms in money. Surgúrghál 278, 290½ Dáms. Castes various, Cavalry 1540. Elephants 30. Infantry 34000.

Containing 30 Mahals, 2,776,673 Bíghas, 16 Biswas, Revenue 52,584, 624 Dáms. Suyúrghál, 1184 655 Dáms. Castes various, Cavalry 3765. Infantry 78, 350.

Containing 21 Mahals, 2,461,73, Bíghas, Revenue 54,992,940 Dáms in money, Suyúrghál 2,094,840 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 4,035. Infantry 78,950.

Containing 16 Mahals, 1,146,465 Bighas, 6 Biswas. Revenue 29,683,649 Dáms in money. Suyúrghál, 240,350 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 2,490. Infantry 43,000.

Containing 16 Mahals, 2,202,124 Bíghas, 18 Biswas. Revenue 37,780,421 Dáms in money. Suyúrghál, 456,493 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 6,160. Elephants 190. Infantry 68,500.

Containing 27 Mahals, 762,014 Bíghas. Revenue, 8,459,296 Dáms. Suyúrghál, 82,662 Dáms. Castes various. Cavalry 1,105. Infantry 18,000.