A´I´N 31.
THE WARDROBE* AND THE STORES FOR MATTRESSES.

His Majesty pays much attention to various stuffs; hence I´rání, European, and Mongolian articles of wear are in abundance. Skilful masters and workmen have settled in this country, to teach people an improved system of manufacture. The Imperial workshops, the towns of Láhór, A´grah, Fathpúr, Ahmadábád, Gujrát, turn out many master-pieces of workmanship; and the figures and patterns, knots, and variety of fashions which now prevail, astonish experienced travellers. His Majesty himself acquired in a short time a theoretical and practical knowledge of the whole trade; and on account of the care bestowed upon them, the intelligent workmen of this country soon improved. All kinds of hair-weaving and silk-spinning were brought to perfection; and the imperial workshops furnish all those stuffs which are made in other countries. A taste for fine material has since become general, and the drapery used at feasts surpasses every description.

All articles which have been bought, or woven to order, or received as tribute or presents, are carefully preserved; and according to the order in which they were preserved, they are again taken out for inspection, or given out to be cut and to be made up, or given away as presents. Articles which arrive at the same time, are arranged according to their prices. Experienced people inquire continually into the prices of articles used both formerly and at present, as a knowledge of the exact prices is conducive to the increase of the stock. Even the prices became generally lower. Thus a piece woven by the famous Ghiás i Naqshband may now be obtained for fifty muhurs, whilst it had formerly been sold for twice that sum; and most other articles have got cheaper at the rate of thirty to ten, or even forty to ten.* His Majesty also ordered that people of certain ranks should wear certain articles; and this was done in order to regulate the demand.

I shall not say much on this subject, though a fcw particulars regarding the articles worn by his Majesty may be of interest.

1. The Takauchiyah is a coat without lining, of the Indian form. Formerly it had slits in the skirt, and was tied on the left side; his Majesty has ordered it to be made with a round skirt, and to be tied on the right side.* It requires seven yards and seven girihs,* and five girihs for the binding. The price for making a plain one varies from one rupee to three rupees; but if the coat be adorned with ornamental stitching, from one to four and three quarters rupees. Besides a misqál of silk is required.

2. The Péshwáz (a coat open in front) is of the same form, but ties in front. It is sometimes made without strings.

3. The Dutáhí (a coat with lining) requires six yards and four girihs for the outside, six yards lining, four girihs for the binding, nine girihs for the border. The price of making one varies from one to three rupees. One misqál of silk is required.

4. The Sháh-ájídah (or the royal stitch coat) is also called Shaçtkhaṭ (or sixty rows), as it has sixty ornamental stitches per girih. It has generally a double lining, and is sometimes wadded and quilted. The cost of making is two rupees per yard.

5. The Sózaní requires a quarter of a sér of cotton and two dáms of silk. If sewed with bakhyah* stitches, the price of making one is eight rupees; one with ájidah stitches costs four rupees.

6. The Qalamí requires 3/8 s. cotton, and one dám silk. Cost of making, two rupees.

7. The Qabá, which is at present generally called jámah i pumbahdár, is a wadded coat. It requires 1 s. of cotton, and 2 m. silk. Price, one rupee to a quarter rupee.

8. The Gadar is a coat wider and longer than the qabá, and contains more wadding. In Hindustan, it takes the place of a fur-coat. It requires seven yards of stuff, six yards of lining, four girihs binding, nine for bordering, 2½ s. cotton, 3 m. silk. Price, from one-half to one and one-half rupees.

9. The Farjí has no binding, and is open in front. Some put buttons to it. It is worn over the jámah (coat), and requires 5 y. 12 g. stuff; 5 y. 5 g. lining; 14 g. bordering; 1 s. cotton; 1 m. silk. Price, from a quarter to one rupee.

10. The Fargul resembles the yápanjí,* but is more comfortable and becoming. It was brought from Europe;* but every one now-a-days wears it. They make it of various stuffs. It requires 9 y.g. stuff, the same quantity of lining, 6 m. silk, 1 s. cotton. It is made both single and double. Price, from ½ to 2 R.

11. The Chakman* is made of broadcloth, or woollen stuff, or wax cloth. His Majesty has it made of Dáráí wax cloth, which is very light and pretty. The rain cannot go through it. It requires 6 y. stuff, 5 g. binding, and 2 m. silk. The price of making one of broadcloth is 2 R.; of wool, 1½ R.; of wax cloth, ½ R.

12. The Shalwár (drawers) is made of all kinds of stuff, single and double, and wadded. It requires 3 y. 11 g. cloth, 6 g. for the hem through which the string runs, 3 y. 5 g. lining, 1¼ m. silk, ½ s. cotton. Price, from ¼ to ½ R.

There are various kinds of each of these garments. It would take me too long to describe the chírahs, fauṭahs, and dupattahs,* or the costly dresses worn at feasts or presented to the grandees of the present time. Every season, there are made one thousand complete suits for the imperial wardrobe, and one hundred and twenty, made up in twelve bundles, are always kept in readiness. From his indifference to every thing that is worldly, His Majesty prefers and wears woollen* stuffs, especially shawls; and I must mention, as a most curious sign of auspiciousness, that His Majesty's clothes becomingly fit every one whether he be tall or short, a fact which has hitherto puzzled many.

His Majesty has changed the names of several garments, and invented new and pleasing terms.* Instead of jámah (coat), he says sarbgátí, i. e., covering the whole body; for izár (drawers), he says yárpíráhan (the companion of the coat); for nímtanah (a jacket), tanzéb; for fauṭah, patgat; for burqu' (a veil), chitragupita; for kuláh (a cap), sís sobhá; for múibáf (a hair ribbon,) késg'han; for patká (a cloth for the loins), katzéb; for shál (shawl), parmnarm; for….*, parmgarm; for kapúrdhúr, a Tibetan stuff, kapúrnúr; for páiafzár (shoes), charndharn; and similarly for other names.