Samarkand is a wonderfully elegant city. One of its
distinguishing peculiarities*
is, that each trade has its own
bazaar; so that different trades are not mixed together in
the same place. The established customs and regulations
are good. The bakers’ shops are excellent, and the cooks are
and manu-
factures.
skilful. The best paper in the world comes from Samarkand.
The species of paper called juwāz*
comes entirely from
Kānegil, which is situated on the banks of the Āb-e-siāh
(Black Water), called also the Āb-e-rahmet (or Water of
Mercy). Another production of Samarkand is kermezi*
(or
crimson velvet), which is exported to all quarters.
Around Samarkand are five aulengs (or meadows). One of these is famous, under the name of Kānegil. It lies to the east of Samarkand, but a little inclining to the north. It may be about a shiraa kos off. The Āb-e-rahmet (or Water of Mercy) runs through the midst of it, and has volume enough to drive seven or eight mills. The banks of this stream are full of quagmires. Many allege that the original name of this meadow was Auleng i Kān-e-ābgīr (the Meadow of Quagmires); but in histories it is always denominated Kān-e-gil (the Clay-Pits).** The Sultans of Samarkand were accustomed to guard this vale as a kurūgh, and were in the habit of taking up their residence for two or three weeks annually in this meadow.
The Yuret-Higher up than this meadow, to the south-east, lies another, called the Yuret-Khan (or Khan’s halting-place). It is to the east of Samarkand, about one shiraa kos.* The Āb-e-siāh (Black Water), after passing through it, proceeds on to Kānegil. The river winds round the Yuret-Khan in such a manner as to leave room within for an army to encamp. The roads leading from it are very narrow. Perceiving the excellence of this position, I encamped here for some time during the siege.
TheAnother is the Kurūgh meadow,* which lies between the Bāgh-e-dilkushā and Samarkand. Another meadow is that of Kūl-e-Maghāk, which lies to the west of Samarkand, but inclining to the north, at the distance of two shiraa kos. This is also a pleasant valley. On one side of it is a large reservoir or piece of water (Kūl), whence it is called the meadow of Kūl-e-Maghāk. During the siege of Samarkand, when I was encamped at Yuret-Khan, Sultan Ali Mirza took up his station on this plain of Kūl-e-Maghāk.
The ValleyAnother is the meadow of Kulbeh, which is but small. On the north it has the village of Kulbeh and the river of Kohik; on the south, the Bāgh-e-meidān and the Chār-bāgh of Dervīsh Muhammed Terkhān; on the east, the hill of Kohik.
Its Tu-Samarkand has many provinces and Tumāns. One of the largest of its provinces, and which comes near to Samarkand, is Bokhāra, lying to the west of Samarkand twenty-five farsangs. Bokhāra is a fine city, and has seven Tumāns or districts, each of them resembling a town. Its fruits are both abundant and of good quality, particularly its melons, which are exquisite; the melons of Bokhāra are not to be equalled in all Māweralnaher, either for quantity or excellence. Though, at Akhsi, in the country of Ferghāna, there is one extremely sweet and delicate species of melon, which they call Mīr Taimūri, yet, in Bokhāra, there is a profusion of melons of every description, and all good of their kind. The pruin or plum of Bokhāra is also celebrated, and nowhere else is that fruit to be found in equal perfection. They peel off the rind of this fruit and dry it, after which it is carried as a most acceptable rarity to other countries. As a laxative, it is a medicine of approved excellence. The household fowl and goose are here of a good breed. In all Māweralnaher there is no wine superior, in spirit and strength, to that of Bokhāra. When I drank wine at Samarkand, in the days when I had my drinking bouts, I used the wine of Bokhāra.
Kesh.Another province is Kesh, to the south of Samarkand, at the distance of nine farsangs. Between the cities of Kesh and Samarkand lies a hill, called Amak Dābān, from which all the stones brought to the city are quarried. In the spring, the plains, the town of Kesh, the walls and terraces of the houses, are all green and cheerful, whence it is named Shahr-i-sabz (the Green City). As Kesh was the place of Taimūr Beg’s nativity, he made incredible exertion to extend and render it his capital. He built a number of magnificent edifices, and, among others, a lofty tāk, or arched hall, for holding his court. On the right and left of this great tāk, he constructed two smaller tāks (or arched halls), for the convenience of the Begs who attended the court. And, for the benefit of those who came to wait the result of their applications, smaller tāks and saloons were constructed on all sides of the great hall of audience. There is not in the world any tāk or arch that can be compared with the large one, which is said to exceed even the Tāk-e-Kisra.* In Kesh there is a college and mausoleum, in which are the tombs of Jehāngīr Mirza and of several of his family. As, however, Kesh was found not to possess the same requisites for becoming a great city as Samarkand, Taimūr Beg at last fixed on Samarkand as his capital.
Karshi.Another province is Karshi, which they also call Nesef and Nakhsheb. Karshi is a Moghul word, signifying a burial-ground. It probably received this name after the conquest of Chinghiz Khan. It is deficient in water, but is very pleasant in spring. Its apricots* and melons are excellent. It is situated south of Samarkand, inclining towards the west, at the distance of eighteen farsangs. There is a small bird resembling the bāghri kāra (blackliver*), which they call kilkūirugh (horse-tails). They are innumerable in the district of Karshi, and, from the quantity of them there found, they get the name of murghak-karshi (the small fowl of Karshi).
Khozār.Another district is that of Khozār.
Karmīna.Karmīna is another; it lies between Samarkand and Bokhāra.
Karakūl.There is another district named Karakūl (the black lake), which lies lower down the river than any of the rest. It is seven farsangs to the north-west of Bokhāra, and has some very fine Tumāns.*
Soghd.Some of the richest Tumāns are those of Soghd, and the Tumāns connected with Soghd, which commence not far from Bokhāra, and proceed without interruption to their termination at Yār-ailāk. There is not one farsang the whole way that does not contain some populous village. It was in allusion to these Tumāns that Taimūr Beg used to boast that he possessed a garden thirty farsangs in length.
Shādwār.Another Tumān is that of Shādwār, which lies close upon the city and suburbs. It is a very fine Tumān. On one side of it is the hill which lies between Samarkand and Shahr-i-sabz; and the greater part of its villages lie scattered on the skirts of that hill. On the other side it has the river Kohik. The temperature of the air is charming; the appearance of the country beautiful, water abundant, and provisions cheap. Those who have travelled in Misr and Shām* acknowledge that nothing there is comparable to it. Though there are other Tumāns dependent on Samarkand, yet they are not equal to those which have been mentioned.*
SuccessionTaimūr Beg conferred the government of Samarkand on his son Jehāngīr; and after the death of Jehāngīr Mirza, he gave it to that prince’s eldest son, Muhammed Sultan Jehāngīr. Shahrokh Mirza conferred the government of all the provinces of Māweralnaher on his own eldest son, Ulugh Beg Mirza, from whom it was taken by his son, Abdallatīf Mirza; who, for the sake of the enjoyments of this fleeting and transitory world, murdered his own father, an old man so illustrious for his knowledge. The date of the death of Ulugh Beg Mirza is contained in the following memorial verses:*