KASHMIR is among the most famous countries of the world, and is celebrated both for its attractions and its wonders. In spite of its renown, no one knows anything about its present state, nor can any of its features or its history be learned from the books of former writers. At this present date of Moharram 950, [1543-4] now that I have subdued this beautiful country and seen all that is notable in it, whatever I shall write will be what I have witnessed.
The second time that I entered Kashmir, and when I had not reduced the whole of the country, I drew an omen [fál] from the Korán, with reference to its conquest and to my becoming established there. The verse that turned up was: “Eat of the daily bread from your Lord, and return your thanks to him in the shape of a fair city. The Lord is forgiving.”
The plain [julgá] of Kashmir extends from the Bakani quarter, which means “between the south and the east,” towards the Rikan Bain [or north-west]; it is a level expanse about a hundred kruh (equivalent to thirty farsákhs) in length. Its width is, at some parts, about twenty kruh, and in a few places ten kruh.* In this region all the land is divided into four kinds. The cultivation is: (1) by irrigation [ábi], (2) on land not needing artificial irrigation, (3) gardens, and (4) level ground, where the river banks abound in violets and many-coloured flowers. On the [level] ground, on account of the excessive moisture, the crops do not thrive, and for this reason the soil is not laboured, which constitutes one of its charms.* The heat in summer is so agreeable, that there is at no time any need of a fan. A soft and refreshing breeze is constantly blowing…*
The climate in winter is also very temperate, notwithstanding the heavy snowfalls, so that no fur cloak [pustin] is necessary. In fact its coldness only serves to render the heat yet more agreeable. When the sun does not shine, the warmth of a fire is far from unpleasant. [Couplet]…* In short I have neither seen nor heard of any country equal to Kashmir, for charm of climate during all the four seasons.
In the town there are many lofty buildings constructed of fresh cut pine. Most of these are at least five stories high and each story contains apartments, halls, galleries and towers. The beauty of their exterior defies description, and all who behold them for the first time, bite the finger of astonishment with the teeth of admiration. But the interiors are not equal to the exteriors.
The passages in the markets, and the streets of the city, are all paved with hewn stone. But the bazaars are not laid out as they are in other towns. In the streets of the markets, only drapers and retail dealers are to be found. Tradesmen do all their business in the seclusion of their own houses. Grocers, druggists, beer-sellers [fukái], and that class of provision vendors who usually frequent markets, do not do so here. The population of this city is equal to that of [other] large towns.
As for the fruits—pears, mulberries, [sweet] cherries and sour cherries are met with, but the apples are particularly good. There are other fruits in plenty, sufficient to make one break one's resolutions. Among the wonders of Kashmir are the quantities of mulberry trees, [cultivated] for their leaves, [from which] silk is obtained. The people make a practice of eating the fruit, but rather regard it as wrong. In the season, fruit is so plentiful that it is rarely bought and sold. The holder of a garden and the man that has no garden are alike; for the gardens have no walls and it is not usual to hinder anyone from taking the fruit.